Replace the Ultimaker 2+ TFM coupler

The TFM coupler is a consumable part inside the print head. This can wear over time due to the heat and pressure in the Ultimaker 2+ hot end. Depending on the used print temperatures, it is recommended to check this part every 400 - 800 printing hours. Replace it when the coupler looks damaged, burnt, or deformed.

Caution: Unload the material, turn off the printer using the power switch at the back, and disconnect the power cable before starting this procedure. Ensure the nozzle has cooled down completely.

Note: These instructions are for the Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 2 Extended+. The instructions for the Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker 2 Go, and Ultimaker 2 Extended are similar.

Instructions

Requirements and info

Disassembly

1. Remove the clamp clip	2. Remove the Bowden tube
Manually place the print head in the front left corner for easier access. Remove the clamp clip from around the tube coupling collet.	Press down on the tube coupling collet while pulling the Bowden tube out of the print head.
3. Remove the long screws	4. Separate the print head
Loosen and remove the four long screws that go through the print head housing.	Place some blue tape around the print head housing to keep the parts together (recommended). Gently move down the bottom part of the print head.
5. Remove the fan bracket	6. Remove the aluminum plate
Use the 2 mm hex key or screwdriver to loosen and remove the two small M3x4 bolts on either side of the print head that secure the fan bracket.	Use the 2 mm hex key or screwdriver to remove the two M3x10 bolts from the top aluminum plate. Take this plate off the hot end assembly.
7. Remove spacer and coupler	8. Inspect the TFM coupler
Take the metal spacer off the TFM coupler and place it aside. Next, take the TFM coupler out of the hot end isolator. If necessary, use the screwdriver to pry it out.	Check the bottom of the coupler. This image shows the difference between a new and a used coupler. If the edge at the bottom looks burnt, frayed, or deformed, replace the coupler with a new one.

Re-assembly

1. Insert the new TFM coupler	2. Place and secure the aluminum plate
Firmly push the new TFM coupler into the hot end isolator and place the metal spacer on top.	Align the aluminum plate with the hot end parts and secure it with the two M3x10 bolts.
3. Attach the fan bracket	4. Align the nozzle
Loosely attach the fan bracket assembly with the four small M3x4 bolts, but make sure it can still move slightly.	Ensure the nozzle is precisely in the center of the hole in the fan bracket before tightening the bolts completely. You can place the 3D printer nozzle alignment tool around the nozzle.
5. Align the print head parts	6. Secure the print head
Remove the tape from the print head housing. Move the hot end and fan bracket assembly up and align the parts. Ensure no wires get stuck.	Insert the four long screws into the print head. Ensure not to pinch or damage any wires at the back of the print head. Do not tighten the four screws completely yet.
7. Place the print head calibration aid	8. Tighten the screws
Place the plastic print head calibration aid between the two aluminum plates of the hot end assembly. Keep it in place during the next step.	Tighten the four long screws until the tool fits securely between the two plates, but can still easily be removed. This tool ensures the correct pressure on the hot end parts.
9. Insert the Bowden tube	10. Place the clamp clip
Push the Bowden tube fully into the tube coupling collet. Lift up the collet with your fingernail and give the Bowden tube another push so it is fully inserted.	Secure the tube in place with a clamp clip.

Finished!

After replacing the TFM coupler, you can now turn on the printer again, reload your material, and run a quick test print.

Tip: This process may have caused a small change in the height of the print head and thereby the position of the nozzle. Level the build plate to ensure that your first layer adheres properly to the glass build plate.